The pattern I am using is from the Tudor Tailor. I scanned the pattern and enlarged the pieces on Photoshop, making sure that every box was about an inch in size just like indicated in the book. I may write a tutorial on how to do this, otherwise Morgan Donner has a great video on how she does it.
Pattern from The Tudor Tailor
I always have to alter patterns to my size, but in this case I was quite lucky. The Tudor Tailor patterns inside the book are pretty much my current measurements (after some significant weight gain *ahem*). I had some leftover coutil fabric, which is quite often used for 19th century corsetry, and created the mock-up. It fit perfectly and I didn't have to change anything. Yay!
For the stays I used:
- 50cm pink silk dupioni, which I bought shortly after Christmas for only 3€/metre!
- two layers of interlining (linen)
- 50cm lining (pink linen)
- synthetic whalebone
I basically followed all the instructions from the Tudor Tailor. I fused interlining and fashion fabric together and stiched the tunnels with a double running stich. I left out the busk, as I didn't find one that would fit the measurements I needed and I didn't want to cut my own. I simply boned the centre with synthetic whalebone too.
Then I sewed in the lining (because I absolutely hate not having a lining inside, it's one of my pet peeves) and did the binding. Finding the right tape for binding was a pain, because the colour of the silk was so unique, that it took me several weeks of searching, only to find some grosgrain ribbon at an interior design shop. I was very content though... I like it when everything colour coordinates.
Colour coordination of silk, linen and grosgrain ribbon
After all that was done, the last step would be making eyelets. Usually I am a lazy person and would simply use metal grommets, but this time I wanted to be as historically accurate as possible. After all I already made the effort of sewing everything by hand, why would I stop at the eyelets?
So far I have only done four eyelets, as it's pretty hard to get through all the layers and I get quite tired after just one. My next post will show the finished eyelets and hopefully I will have pictures of me wearing it already.
good work at all
ReplyDelete10th class notes